Fault Codes Maytag® EPIC z™ Appliance
Fault codes usually indicate a specific problem. However, in many cases, a faulty timer (ERC or Electronic Range Control) can result in an incorrect fault code. Our team of technicians is experienced in repairing most timers and we know how to get to the bottom of any Maytag issue. Review the Maytag fault codes below to stay on top of any issue that may arise.
F0 – Stuck function key
- Replace the touchpad or if touchpad is part of the clock, replace the clock (ERC).
F1 – Touchpad or clock (ERC) defect
- Replace the touchpad or clock (ERC). The touchpad is a more common problem. Refer to F1 test at the top of this page for further information.
F2 – Oven temperature too hot
- Replace the relay board, if present, or the oven temperature sensor (RTD). Check sensor harness.
F3 or F4 – Shorted or open oven temperature sensor (RTD)
- Check the sensor harness and harness connection between the oven sensor and oven control. Replace the oven temperature sensor (RTD) if the wiring is ok.
F5 – Watchdog and hardware conflict
- Replace the clock (ERC).
F7 – Function key stuck or shorted
- Replace the touchpad or if the touchpad is part of the clock, replace the clock (ERC).
F8 – Analog / Digital problem
- Replace the clock (ERC).
F9 – Door latch
- Check the door latch components.
Maytag® EPIC z™ Neptune, Atlantis, Dryer Fault Codes
PF – Power Failure
Power failure while the dryer was in cycle. Press the Stop button to clear the display. If you experience common power failures on your dryer be sure to check the electrical outlet cord.
Part to replace – Outlet Cord
F01 – Main Electronic Control Board Fail
Remove the dryer from power for 10 minutes. Apply power back to the dryer and if the code returns you need to replace the main electronic control board.
Part to replace – Main Electronic Control Board
F02 – Keypad or User Interface Fail
A button on the keypad may be stuck on one of the user interface controls. If the button cannot be unstuck then replace the user interface control assembly.
Part to replace – User Interface Control Assembly
F22 – Exhaust Thermistor (Temp Sensor) Fail
Remove power from the dryer. Use a multi-meter and check the resistance of the thermistor (0,000 ohms). If the thermistor is bad then replace it.
Part to replace – Thermistor (Temp Sensor)
F23 – Exhaust Thermistor (Temp Sensor) Fail
Remove power from the dryer. Use a multi-meter and check the resistance of the thermistor (0,000 ohms). If the thermistor is bad then replace it.
Part to replace – Thermistor (Temp Sensor)
F26 – Drive Motor Fail
Remove power from the dryer. Check wiring connections between the main electronic control board and the drive motor. If the wiring connections are not damaged and connected then replace the drive motor.
Part to replace – Drive Motor
F28 – Moisture Sensor Fail
Remove power from the dryer. Check the wiring harness on the moisture sensor visually and with a multi-meter. If the wiring connections are okay then replace the moisture sensor.
Part to replace – Moisture Sensor
F29 – Moisture Sensor Fail
Remove power from the dryer. Check the wiring harness on the moisture sensor visually and with a multi-meter. If the wiring connections are okay then replace the moisture sensor.
Part to replace – Moisture Sensor
Maytag® EPIC z™ Neptune, Atlantis, Washer Fault Codes
nd – The water level fails to drop below the Low Water level reset within 15 minutes, before a spin begins.
LO – Door failed to unlock after 3 attempts.
nF – Continuous fill of 12minutes. Total fill of 14minutes.
FL – Door failed to lock after3 attempts.
LE – Water sensor level fault. 8
OE A fault is detected in the water level sensor. Data (frequency) shows the water level is at or above the overflow level.
E-E2 – Detected a key pressed more than 30seconds, the key will be assumed to be stuck.
dc – Never exceeded 400rpm due to an unbalanced load.
od – The door has not been opened after two complete wash cycles. Door switch was not seen open since the last two final spins.
dL – Open door lock switch with motor running.
dS – Door switch is read as open and the door locked switch is read as locked.
bE – Motor tach signal exists without motor running.
tE – Abnormal high/low temp or ohm resistance seen.
E3 – Machine control is attempting to drive the motor but is not seeing any tach response. Visual check shows motor is not moving. (Locked, Hall Sensor fault)
Sr – System Relay failure.
Hr – Heater Relay failure.
Fridge Error Codes
1-1 – Stuck relay on the electronic control board
1-2 – All the LED’s are on because the user interface control is incompatible with the electronic control board
2-1 – Stuck button on the user interface control
2-2 – User interface control can’t communicate, with electronic control board,
3-1 – Thermistor/OWI sensor failure (The thermistor is the water temperature sensor, the OWI sensor is the Optical Water Indicator that detects the amount of debris in the water.)
3-2 – Shorted thermistor/OWI sensor.
3-3 – OWI failed to calibrate or the drain hose check valve failed, allowing dirty water to backflow into the dishwasher
4-3 – Communication error between the electronic control board and the circulation pump motor
5-1 – Door switch failure
Fridge Error Codes
5-2 – Control detects door not opening
6-1 – Won’t fill
6-2 – Water inlet valve failure
6-3 – Suds or air are in the water pump
6-4 – The float switch is open
6-6 – Incoming water is too cold
6-7 – Disconnected or damaged flow meter
6-8 – Problem with water softener regeneration valve (Water Softener Models Only),
7-1 – Heating element doesn’t work
7-2 – Heating element won’t shut off
8-1 – Slow drain
8-2 – Drain pump electrical problem
8-3 – Drain pump stuck on
10-1 –Detergent dispenser failure
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